Tourism Is Wearing Out the Planet

By David Lodge

Born in 1935 and educated at University College London, David Lodge is one of the best-known authors of campus or university novels such as Changing Places (1975), Small World (1984) and Nice Work (1988). While these fictions display his gift for satirical and ironic descriptions of life in an academic environment, Paradise News (1991) revolves around the issue of travelling. specifically mass tourism, as experienced on the beautiful island of Hawaii. The island seems to be flooded with tourists, the novel's protagonist Bernard Walsh being one of them. This is put into a global perspective by one of the other characters of the novel, Roger Sheldrake, an academic doing research in tourism. He reflects on tourism as a new quasi-religion in the following excerpt. - David Lodge, Paradise News (Harmondsworth: Penguin. 1992), 78-79.

"Tourism is wearing out the planet." Sheldrake delved into his silvery attaché case again and brought out a sheaf of press-cuttings marked with yellow highlighter. Re flipped through them. "The footpaths in the Lake District have become trenches. The frescos in the Sistine Chapel are being damaged by the breath and body-heat of spectators. A hundred and eight people enter Notre Dame every minute: their feet are eroding the floor and the buses that bring them there are rotting the stonework with exhaust fumes. Pollution from cars queuing to get to Alpine ski resorts is killing the trees and causing avalanches and landslides. The Mediterranean is like a toilet without a chain: you have a one in six chance of getting an infection if you swim in it. In 1987 they had to close Venice one day because it was full. In 1963 forty-four people went down the Colorado river on a raft, now there are a thousand trips a day. In 1939 a million people travelled abroad; last year it was four hundred million. By the year 2000 there could be six hundred and fifty million international travellers, and five times as many people travelling in their own countries. The mere consumption of energy entailed is stupendous."

"My goodness," said Bernard.

"The only way to put a stop to it, short of legislation, is to demonstrate to people that they aren't really enjoying themselves when they go on holiday, but engaging in a superstitious ritual. It's no coincidence that tourism arose just as religion went into decline. It's the new opium of the people, and must be exposed as such."

"Won't you do yourself out of a job, if you're successful?" said Bernard.

"I don't think there's any immediate risk of that," said Sheldrake, surveying the crowded lounge.

Vocabulary

Wear out (v,): to damage, ruin, exhaust - delve (v.): to search by putting your hand deeply into it - attaché case (n,): a thin case used for carrying business documents -sheaf (n,): several pieces of paper held or tied together - press-cutting (n.): a short piece of writing or a picture, cut out from a newspaper or magazine - trench (n.): a long narrow hole dug into the surface of the ground - fresco (n.): a painting made on a wall while the plaster is still wet - erode (v.): gradually destroying the surface - exhaust fumes (n.): waste gasses from cars - avalanche (n.): a large mass of snow, ice, and rocks that falls down the side of a mountain (similar to landslide) - raft (n.): a flat floating structure, usually made of pieces of wood tied together. used as a boat - consumption (n.): the act of buying and using products - entail (v.): to involve something as a necessary part or result - stupendous (adi.): surprisingly large or impressive - superstitious (adi.): strongly influenced by a belief which is not based on fact or reason but on old ideas about luck, magic, etc. - coincidence (n.): sth. which happens by chance

Explanations

Lake District: an area in northwest England famous for its beautiful lakes and mountains and visited by many tourists

Sistine Chapel: a chapel in the Vatican, Rome, famous for the paintings on its ceiling done by Michelangelo

Notre Dame: a famous cathedral in central Paris, which is a beautiful Gothic building from the 12th century

Are You Experienced?

William Sutcliffe was born in 1971. The Londoner is the author of three bestsellers, New Boy The Love Hexagon and Are You Experienced? His novels have been hugely successful and translated into eleven languages. The adventures and misadventures of 19-year-old Dave, a cynical young man who uses his 'gap year' between school and university for a big exotic journey through India, are related in Are You Experienced?, which was first published in 1997. A hilarious, enormously readable satire on backpackers who are only interested in 'getting to know themselves' and mostly ignorant of India and its people, the novel narrates Dave's experiences as a rite of passage into adulthood - he returns a wiser, more experienced man. Below you find two passages from the novel. The first one takes place in a train station in the middle of India, with Dave and a journalist from Great Britain as the only foreigners. Here the first-person narrator Dave gets a severe dressing-down. The journalist accuses him - and with him his generation - of being completely uninterested in India and the Third World. In the second passage. David takes the Bus to Goa, formerly a hippie 'hang-out', today a place of mass-tourism. - William Sutcliffe, Are You Experienced? (Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1997). 139f., 142f.


'I might do an article on you,' he said. 'About me? What have you got to say about me?' 'I'm not sure. Tell me - what do you do all day?' 'What do I do?' I gave him a suspicious look. 'You know - I'm travelling. I'm a backpacker.' 'But what do you do all day? How come you don't get bored?' 'Bored? You could never get bored here.' 'What do you do, though? In each place.' He looked genuinely interested. 'Well, you get there. Look for a hotel. Hang out there for a bit. Look around town for a few days. Eat. Read. Sleep. Talk to other travellers. Think about where to go next, then - you know - it's a big hassle to get the tickets for your next journey, so you prepare yourself for that. Then bite the bullet, spend a morning queuing for tickets, and the next day you move on.' 'Right. So the most significant and challenging thing you do in each place is to buy the tickets for getting to the next place.' 'No, I didn't say that.' 'Yes you did.' 'It's fine. I've got more than enough material already.' 'Like what? What are you going to write about me then?' 'I think ... something about how it's not hippies on a spiritual mission who come here any more, just morons on a poverty-tourism adventure holiday. The real point would have to be about how going to India isn't an act of rebellion these days, it's actually a form of conformity for ambitious middle-class kids who want to be able to put something on their CV that shows a bit of initiative. All the top companies want robots with initiative these days, and coming to the Third World is the ideal hoop for you to leap through. You come here and cling to each other as if you're on some kind of extended management-bonding exercise in Epping Forest. Then, having got the nasty business of travel out of the way, you can go home and prove to employers that you are more than ready to settle down for a life of drudgery. I suppose you could call it a modern form of ritual circumcision - it's a badge of suffering you have to wear to be welcomed into the tribe of Britain's future elite. Your kind of travel is all about low horizons dressed up as open-mindedness. You have no interest in India. and no sensitivity for the problems this country is trying to face up to. You also treat Indians with a mixture of contempt and suspicion which is reminiscent of the Victorian colonials. Your presence here, in my opinion, is offensive. The whole lot of you should fuck off back to Surrey.'[…]

In Bombay, I only needed to take one sniff of the city to realize that I couldn't face staying, and walked to the nearest travel agent to buy a ticket for the first bus to Goa (quicker than the train at mere sixteen hours, according to The Book). The bus was due to leave in two hours, actually left in four hours, and took three more hours to reach the edge of Bombay. Once we reached the open road, it was already after midnight, so I decided to try and fall asleep just as the driver put a tape of Hindi musicals on at top volume. This tape played all night, periodically interrupted by me standing up and shouting at him to turn it down. When I did this, everyone on the bus stared at me as if I was mad. Apparently, it was common practice for bus drivers to play music to help keep themselves awake while they drove through the night. At one of our innumerable stops, I bought a box of biscuits from a road-side stall so that I could tear off strips of cardboard in order to improvise a set of ear-plugs, which, it turned out, didn't make any difference to the noise, kept on falling out, and gave me sore ears. I also ate all the biscuits in one go, just to try and take my mind off things, which made me feel sick. The bus broke down half-way through the following day, and I ended up hitchhiking to Panjim (the capital of Goa) in the back of a truck, with a pile of axles for my seat. In a delirium of anger, frustration, loneliness and arse pain, I just about managed to face the one final leg of journey, which was to take a local bus out of the city to the beach. I didn't care where it was going, or which resort I ended up in as long as there was a beach. I had clearly been wrong about the joys of travelling.

Vocabulary

Suspicious (adj.): thinking that someone might be guilty of doing something wrong or dishonest - genuine (adj.): sincere, real - hassle (n.): something that is annoying, because it causes problems or is difficult to do - bite the bullet (v.): do something unpleasant - spiritual mission (n.): religious work that involves going to a foreign country in order to teach people about Christianity or help poor people - moron (n.): idiot - conformity (n.): behaviour that obeys the accepted rules of society or a group - ambitious (adj.): determined to be successful, rich, powerful etc. - CV: curriculum vitae, a short written document that lists your education and previous jobs, which you send to employers when you are looking for a job - leap through a hoop (n.): usually performed in a circus by animals: jump through something resembling a circle - extended management-bonding exercise (n.): a course for bosses to create more team spirit - drudgery (n.): hard, boring work - circumcision (n.): the act of cutting off the end of the penis, here referring to a ritual - badge of suffering (n.): a sign, e.g. a medal that one has suffered and been brave, usually in war - tribe (n.): usually: a social group consisting of people of the same race - sensitivity (n.): the ability to understand other people's feelings and problems - contempt (n.): a feeling that someone or something is not important and deserves no respect - reminiscent of (adj.): reminding of - offensive (adj.): very rude or insulting and likely to upset people - sniff (n.): informal: a small amount or sign of - periodically (adv.): a number of times, usually at regular times - stall (n.): a small shop with an open front - ear-plugs (n.): sth. you put into your ears so as not to hear what is happening around you - sore (adj.): painful - take my mind off things: so I would not worry - axle (n.): the bar connecting two wheels on a car or other vehicle - arse (n.): (vulgar) the part of your body that you sit on - leg (n.): (here) part - resort (n.): a place where a lot of people go for holidays

Explanations

Epping Forest: a forest in Great Britain

Victorian colonials: the officials who would run the British Empire in the age of Queen Victoria (1837-1901)

Surrey: a county in southeast England which is one of the Home Counties. Many of the people who live there travel to London every day to work, and most people think of Surrey as a wealthy, mainly middle-class area

The Book: allusion to one of the main tourist guides for students and backpackers, here The Lonely Planet (see page 49)

Hindi: an official language in India

The Nowhere Man

Born in England to Indian parents Pica Iyer was educated at Eton, Oxford and Harvard. Currently dividing his life between California and Japan, Iyer is a renown regular contributor to international magazines and a writer of non-fiction. His articles explore how our world is shaped by the way cultures interact, collide and cohabit. Drawing on his personal experiences, he relates in his writings extraordinary insights info the way the global and the local meet. - Pica Iyer, "The Nowhere Man", Observer, February 16, 1997.

By the time I was nine, I was already used to going to school by transatlantic plane, to sleeping in airports, to shuttling back and forth three times a year, between my parents' Indian home in California and my boarding school in England. While I was growing up, I was never within 6,000 miles of the nearest relative. From the time I was a teenager, I took it for granted that I could take my budget vacations in Bolivia and Tibet, China and Morocco. It never seemed strange to me that a girlfriend might be ten hours flying time away, that my closest friends might be on the other side of a continent.

It was only recently that I realised that all these habits of mind and life would scarcely have been imaginable in my parents' youth; that the very facts and facilities that shape my world are all distinctly new developments, and mark me as a modern type. It was only recently, in fact, that I realised that I am an example, perhaps, of an entirely new breed of people, a transcontinental tribe of wanderers that is multiplying as fast as international telephone lines and frequent flyer programmes. We are the transit loungers, forever heading to the departure gate. We buy our interests duty-free, we eat our food on plastic plates, we watch the world through borrowed headphones. We pass through countries as through revolving doors, impermanent residents of nowhere. Nothing is strange to us, and nowhere is foreign. We are visitors even in our own homes.

This kind of life offers an unprecedented sense of freedom and mobility: tied down nowhere, we can pick and choose among locations. Ours is the first generation that can go off to visit Tibet for a week, or meet Tibetans down the street. At a superficial level, this new internationalism means that I can meet, in the Hilton coffee shop, an Indonesian businessman who is as conversant as I am with Magic Johnson and Madonna. At a deeper level, it means that I need never feel estranged. If all the world is alien to us, all the world is home.

I have learned to love foreignness. In any place I visit, I have the privileges of an outsider: I am an object of interest, and even fascination; I am a person set apart, able to enjoy the benefits of the place without paying the taxes. And the places themselves seem glamourous to me - romantic - as seen through foreign eyes: distance on both sides lends enchantment. Policemen let me off speeding tickets, girls want to hear the story of my life, pedestrians will gladly point me to the nearest golden arches. Perpetual foreigners in the transit lounge, we enjoy a kind of diplomatic immunity; and, living off room service in our hotel rooms, we are never obliged to grow up, or even, really, to be ourselves.

And yet, sometimes, I stop myself and think. What kind of heart is being produced by these new changes? Must I always be a None of the Above? When the stewardess presents me with disembarkation forms, what do I fill in? My passport says one thing, my face another. My accent contradicts my eyes. Place of residence, final destination, even marital status are not much easier to fill in; usually, I just tick "other".

Beneath all the boxes, where do we place ourselves? How does one fix a moving object on a map? I am not an exile, really, nor an immigrant; not deracinated, I think, any more than I am rooted. I have not felt the oppression of war, nor found ostracism in the places where I do alight; I scarcely feel severed from a home I have scarcely known. Yet is "citizen of the world" enough to comfort me?

Alienation, we are taught from kindergarten onwards, is the condition of our time. This is the century of exiles and refugees, of boat people and statelessness; the time when traditions have been abolished, and men become closer to machines. This is the century of estrangement: one third of all Afghans live outside of Afghanistan; the second city of the Khmers is a refugee camp; the second tongue of Beverly Hills is Farsi.

We airport hoppers can, in fact, go through the world as through a house of wonders, picking up something at every stop, and taking the whole globe as our playpen. And we can mix and match as the situation demands. "Nobody's history is my history," Kazuo Ishiguro, a great spokesman for the privileged homeless, once said to me, and went on, "Whenever it was convenient for me to become very Japanese, I could become very Japanese, and then, when I wanted to drop it, I would just become this ordinary Englishman." Instantly, I felt a shock of recognition: I have a wardrobe of selves from which to choose, and I savour the luxury of being able to be an Indian in Cuba (where people are starving for Yoga and Rabindranath Tagore), an American in Thailand or an Englishman in New York.

Unable to get stirred by the raising of a flag, we are sometimes unable to see how anyone could be stirred. I sometimes think that this is how Salman Rushdie, the great analyst of this condition, somehow became its victim. He had juggled homes for so long, that he forgot how the world looks to someone who is rooted - in country or belief. He had chosen to live so far from affiliation that he could no longer see why people choose affiliation in the first place. Besides, being part of no society means one is accountable to no one, and need respect no laws outside one's own. If single nation people can be fanatical as terrorists, we can end up ineffectual as peace keepers.

We become, in fact, strangers to belief itself, unable to comprehend many of the rages and dogmas that animate (and unite) people. Conflict itself seems inexplicable to us, because partisanship is; we have the agnostic's inability to retrace the steps of faith. I could not begin to fathom why some Muslims would think of murder after hearing about The Satanic Verses: yet sometimes I force myself to recall that it is we, in our floating scepticism, who are the exceptions, that in China or Iran, Korea or Peru, it is not so strange to give up one's life for a cause.

We end up, then, a little like non-aligned nations, confirming our reservations at every step. We tell ourselves, self-servingly, that nationalism breeds monsters, and choose to ignore the fact that internationalism breeds them too. Ours is the culpability not of the assassin, but of the bystander who takes a snapshot of the murder. Or, when the revolution catches fire, hops on the next plane out.

Sometimes though, just sometimes, I am brought up short by symptoms of my condition. I have never bought a house of any kind, and my ideal domestic environment, I sometimes tell my friends, is a hotel room. I have never voted, or ever wanted to vote, and I eat in restaurants three times a day. I have never supported any nation (in the Olympic games, say) or represented "my country" in anything. Even my name is weirdly international, because my "real name" is one that makes sense only in the home where I have never lived.

If I have any deeper home, it is, I suppose, in English. My language is the house I carry around with me as a snail his shell; and in my lesser moments I try to forget that mine is not the language spoken in America, or even, really, by any member of my family.

Yet even here, I find, I cannot place my accent, or reproduce it as I can the tones of others. And I am so used to modifying my English inflections according to whom I'm talking to - an American, an Englishman, a villager in Nepal, a receptionist in Paris - that I scarcely know what kind of voice I have.

I wonder, sometimes, if this new kind of non-affiliation may not be alien to something fundamental in the human state. The refugee at least harbours passionate feelings about the world he has left - and generally seeks to return there; the exile at least is propelled by some kind of strong emotion away from the old country towards the new - indifference is not an exile emotion. But what does the transit lounger feel? What are the issues that we would die for? What are the passions that we would live for?

Vocabulary

Boarding school (n.): a school where students live as well as study - budget (adj.): very low in price - scarcely (adj.): almost not or almost none at all - breed (n.): a particular kind of person or type - transcontinental (adj.): crossing a continent - tribe (n.): a social group consisting of people of the same race - transit lounge (n.): airport lounge for people who use the airport to switch directly to another flight without leaving the airport - revolving door (n.): a type of door in the entrance of a large building, which goes around and around as people go through it - impermanent (adj,): not staying the same for ever - unprecedented (adj.): never having happened before - internationalism (n.): the belief that nations should work together and help each other - enchantment (n.): the quality of being very pleasant or attractive - disembarkation form: form to be filled out before getting off a ship or airplane - marital status (n.): whether someone is married - used especially on official forms - deracinated (adj.): with one's (cultural) roots removed -  ostracism (n.): if a group of people ostracize someone, they refuse to accept them as a member of the group - alight (v,): to step out of a vehicle after a journey - severed (adj.): cut off - citizen (n.): someone who lives in a particular town, country, or state - alienation (n.).. the feeling of not being part of society or a group - exile (n.): a person who is forced to leave his or her country and live in another country, especially for political reasons - refugee (n.).. someone who has been forced to leave their country, especially during a war, or for political or religious reasons - playpen (n.): an enclosed area in which a very small child can play safely, that is like an open box with sides made of bars or a net -  savour (v.): to fully enjoy a time or experience - stirred (adj.): if a feeling stirs in you, you begin to feel it - juggle (v.): (here) to try to fit two or more jobs, activities etc into your life, especially with difficulty - affiliation (n.): the connection or involvement that someone or something has with a political, religious etc organization - accountable (adj.): responsible for the effects of your actions and willing to explain or be criticized for them - dogma (n.): a set of firm beliefs held by a group of people who expect other people to accept these beliefs without thinking about them - inexplicable (adj.): too unusual or strange to be explained or understood - agnostic (n.): someone who believes that people cannot know whether God exists or not - partisanship (n.): strongly supporting a particular political party, plan or leader, usually without considering the other choices carefully - fathom (v.): to understand what something means after thinking about it carefully -non-aligned (adj.): anon-aligned country does not support, or is not dependent on, any of the powerful countries in the world - self-serving (adj.): showing that you will only do something if it will gain you an advantage - used to show disapproval - nationalism (n.): love for your own country and the belief that it is better than any other country - breed (v.): produce - culpability (n.): deserving blame - bystander (n.): someone who watches what is happening without taking part - domestic environment (n.): relating to family relationships and life at home - snail (n.): a small soft creature that moves very slowly and has a hard shell on its back - inflection (n.): the way in which a word changes its form to show a difference in its meaning or use - receptionist (n.): someone whose job is to welcome and deal with people arriving in a hotel or office building, visiting a doctor etc - propel (v.): to move, drive, or push something forward

Explanations

Golden arches: synonym for McDonald's (the yellow M-­sign of McDonald's looks like two golden arches)

None of the Above: Option to be filled out on forms if no other answer fits

Khmer: tribe of Cambodia

Farsi: the language of Iran

Kazuo Ishiguro: (1954-) novelist, born in Nagasaki but came to England in 1960. Well-known for novels such as The Artist of the Floating World (1986) and The Remains of the Day (1989)

Rabindranath Tagore: (1861-1941) a Bengali Indian writer, one of the most important Indian writers of the 20th century. His works include Gitonjali and Chitra, a play which he translated into English

Salman Rushdie: (1947-) a British writer born in India, who won the Booker Prize for his novel Midnight’s Children. In 1988 his novel The Satanic Verses offended Muslims because they said that it was insulting to their religion, with the result that Ayatollah Khomeini in Iran gave a fatwa, an order that Rushdie should be killed. He had to live in a secret place for many years