London Town 

by Muriel St. Clare Byrne

An Elizabethan who did not live in London lived in the country. Actually he might inhabit a township or a city of no mean importance; all over England the towns were growing rapidly in size and wealth. But in essence London was, as the fourteenth‑century Scots poet had called it, "of townes A per Se". It was the largest in Europe. It had a population, variously estimated today, of one to some three hundred thousand. It stood alone, unique; it was 'the town", town life was London life. Never before or since has it bulked quite so large in the imagination of the people (...), at no other time has it so focused, so concentrated, so dominated the national being.

Although Elizabeth continued the custom of making royal progresses throughout the realm, the Court in her reign may be said finally to have lost its original migratory character. It became once and for all essentially associated with and situated in London. It was in this reign therefore that the Government and the Privy Council came to regard London as their permanent abode. Thus naturally there gravitated to the source of all advancement and the seat of power the ability, the culture, the wisdom, and the riches of the whole kingdom; London took to it itself the resurgent energies of the nation.

Tudor London, more particularly towards the end of Elizabeth's reign, was an overcrowded and insanitary city, but it was, as a whole, undeniably picturesque and parts of it were beautiful. The Thames with its bridge, its palaces, its gardens, its swans, and its multitude of vessels, was the pride of every Londoner; old St Paul's was the finest ecclesiastical building in the country, and was, indeed, England's pride. When the disastrous fire destroyed it we lost what had been the largest of English cathedrals and the most magnificent. The way in which it dominated the City can well be realized from the contemporary views, and before it lost its graceful spire, struck by lightning in 1561, this had soared high above all the hundred and twenty church spires which rose from every quarter of the city.

Although the Tudor period saw much building in and around London, as well as the erection of noblemen's palaces and of Sir Thomas Gresham's famous Royal Exchange, it saw also the beginning of the overcrowding of the metropolis, with which problem the authorities have found themselves confronted ever since. Not only had the population steadily increased, but it had been augmented by the influx of all those restless spirits who flocked to Court to make their fortunes and who generally forsook the country and took up their permanent abode in London.

Overcrowding had already begun to create slums. Nothing creates a slum quarter more quickly than old houses that have come down in the world. The palace that was originally designed for some nobleman and his enormous establishment becomes first the tenement house and then the rabbit‑warren, the plague spot, crowded from garret to cellar with dirty, poverty‑stricken wretches.

Gardens and open spaces admittedly there were throughout the length and breadth of Elizabethan London. They helped to sweeten the air in slum localities, but (...) they were being encroached upon, so that the bad condition of the streets of the town intensified the evils resulting from the bad housing conditions. Except for its two or three main thoroughfares London was a network of narrow, badly paved lanes, half darkened by the overhanging fronts of the houses, and rendered wholly unsavoury by the unpleasant habit which prevailed of depositing all the garbage in the kennel or in front of one's door.

from  M.St.Clare Byrne, Elizabethan Life in Town and Country, 1925 (1961), pp 73, 77‑80